During the weekend of April 24th and 25th, I applied Froonie's first coat of topsides primer. Yes, what a milestone! After countless hours of fussing over cracking and crazing 40+ year-old gelcoat...I am finally restoring instead of removing. Alas, the unseen is seen. I learned an important lesson over this 16-hour work weekend, and it is that perfection is almost an impossibility. When I applied this first coat of primer, Froonie's topsides were shown to me in a different light. I could see imperfections in the gelcoat that I thought previously had not existed. So, next time, Brian...get the topsides to a "suitable" condition - filling and fairing I mean - and let the prime coat expose what needs to be addressed.
Anyway, I was really happy to get this first coat of primer on; it is a turning point in the project. I am using the Interlux brand Prime-Kote for the topsides. There are a couple of good reasons that I am using this product: 1. it states that it is a good primer choice for Interlux Perfection (a two-part polyurethane I plan to use), and 2. it has great application for cracked and crazed gelcoats - which I have. I have already spent significant time "chasing" cracks and voids in the gelcoat, and then filling with thickened epoxy, and finally sanding; now this Interlux product seemed very well suited for my project as a second measure against poor gelcoat conditions. The product itself is a two-part system - epoxy based. The day I chose, or rather the day I was forced into priming (I do not have the luxury of deciding which day I will prime), was rather hot and windy - which I believe had an impact of my ability to roll and tip. After mixing part A and part B, waiting 20 minutes for induction, and finally adding brushing thinner 2333N, I was ready to apply the first coat. I used a fine nap roller for application of the Prime-Kote, and then a white China bristle brush to tip it off. This was my first attempt to roll and tip a marine grade paint / primer. I followed the instructions on the packaging to a "t"; however, what was left for me to sand the next day were a lot of brush marks. My only thought here was that I did not have enough thinning agent for the painting conditions - heat and wind. I do plan to phone Interlux to discuss technique and the day's weather conditions. I do know that primers do not "level" as well as topcoats, but with Interlux Perfection going for $55 / quart, I need to get good at this technique.
Below is a picture of the engine well - an area of the hull that I have put a number of hours into filling cut-outs, fairing and then fairing again. It is delightful to see my labor's fruit - a shapely stern (that's what she said).
Here is the port aft portion of Froonie - nice complexion!
On the 25th, the day after priming, I went to work sanding out a lot of disappointing brush marks, but also notating places on the hull that required further filling and fairing. I used 120 grit hook and loop pads of my DeWalt VS RO finish sander, and circled areas that required attention as I went. The areas needing attention were very small chips and voids - the picture does not allow for such detail to see them.
I wrapped up the weekend with filling the cracks and voids with West System epoxy thickened with 410 microlite and 406 collodial silica. The following two pictures give you a sense of what I missed during my effort to bring the hull to "perfection" prior to priming. Wow, I was way off. Perhaps a high-build primer would fill in a lot of these cracks and voids, but this is the path I have chosen :) ...did I mention Froonie's topsides will be pink?
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