Seacock and Thru Hull Installation

Sunday afternoon, September 12th, I arrived back at Froonie and set things up for sanding the fairing filler I applied the previous evening. The first coat of deck primer (Interlux Epoxy Primekote) presented a number of areas that needed to be filled and faired prior to continuing on with subsequent coats.

I water washed all areas that I filled to remove the amine blush, using a 3M scouring pad. Next, I set up my DeWalt vs random orbital sander with 150 grit hook and loop pads and carefully sanded the surfaces to fair. I went back and hit the tighter areas by hand, areas that the machine would prove too aggressive with. The filler material I used is West System Epoxy with a mixture of 406 colloidal silica and 407 low-density filler (micro-balloons). Here is the photo of the foredeck after I completed all sanding of the filler.

Once the sanding was complete, I wiped down the topsides and deck with solvent to remove residual sanding dust - just to keep things relatively tidy. I then moved on to the day's primary task: installation of the thru hulls and seacocks.

First thing that I did was to lay out all required components, and mentally go through the exercise of installation. I decided to use Marelon thru hull fittings and seacocks; my decision was based in part on price, but mostly on the anti-corrosive nature of the product and its durability. I used SitkaFlex 291 for the bedding compound (liberal amounts), and silicone bronze flat-head machine screws, washer and bolts.

The seacock bases are made from three 1/4" squares of red oak laminated with epoxy - bedded onto thickened epoxy, with fillets created around all sides. The use of red oak was not the best choice, and future bases will be installed using fiberglass board (G10, or the like, or my own hand-laid fiberglass boards). I will no doubt be checking the integrity of the bases and seacocks for the first 2 years she's in the water...

After installing the bases and drilling for the screws and thru hull fittings, I came back and counter-sinked all screw and thru hull openings (except for the hull side opening for the thru hull). This counter-sinked area around each opening would provide further space for the bedding compound to migrate to, providing a good barrier between ocean and boat interior.

PROCESS:

1. I applied bedding compound to the screw heads and their exterior counter-sinked entry holes

2. I partially inserted screws into holes

3. From inside, I applied bedding compound to the counter-sinked openings on the seacock base plate

4. From inside, I applied bedding compound to the underside of the seacock base and placed on the screws

5. I tightened down the seacock base , and wiped away much of the oozing bedding compound

6. I wrapped plumbers tape around about half of the threads of the thru hull fitting

7. I gooped-up much of the interior of the thru hull hole, and screwed the thru hull into the seacock base

8. I wiped up the oozing bedding compound for a tidy appearance

9. I repeated for the other installation

Photo below shows the installed seacock base, and silicone bronze screws tightened down.

Next, I cut the bronze machine screws to appropriate length, and secured the balance of the seacock assembly.

This photo, below, shows the thru hull fitting installed - starboard cockpit scupper drain. After cure time, I will apply fairing filler to screws holes to bring to fair and further protect against water intrusion.

This photo, below, shows the thru hull fitting installed - port cockpit scupper drain. After cure time, I will apply fairing filler to screws holes to bring to fair and further protect against water intrusion.

Readying Base Plates for Seacock Installation

Recently, I had installed the seacock base plates - made from laminating three layers of red oak, and then bonding to the hull with West System's 403 Micro Fibers. Here is the base plate installed for the starboard cockpit scupper seacock. For more on the seacocks and background leading to the installations, see my previous post in "Plumbing" entitled 'Attaching Seacock Backing Plates', May 28, 2010.

Next, I found the center mark for the base plate, and drilled for the through hull fitting itself, using a Rigid hole saw bit for my DeWalt corded drill.

Next step was to align the seacock flange over the base plate and mark for the 1/4" machine screws that will secure the seacock to the base plate. For this step I temporarily screwed the through hull into the flange - after removing the flange from the seacock - lined up the flange on the base plate to a satisfactory location, and carefully marked for the 1/4" machine screw holes to be drilled. After drilling the first 1/4" hole, I climbed out of the boat and threaded an old 1/4" bolt up through the base plate and flange, and tightened it down with a washer and nut. I repeated this step for the second of three holes to be drilled. The reason for placing the temporary 1/4" bolt was to keep the flange in proper alignment as the other holes are drilled. The task was made all the more difficult being alone on the job...in and out of the boat a half-dozen times, whew!

After I had the through hull and 1/4" machine screw holes drilled for each of the two cockpit scupper seacocks, I mixed up some 'neat' epoxy to wet out the base plates sufficiently. Since I chose to use red oak for the seacock base plate material, I wanted to make sure that no water could get to the wood, which would cause eventual failure. I sanded the original 403 micro fiber fillets, and generally prepared the surfaces for epoxy. I wetted the entire base plate and surround surfaces, as well as the interior of the through hull I had just drilled. I then climbed out and wetted the exterior hull surfaces around the through hull installation, and after preparing those surfaces for epoxy work. Finally, I formed a smoothing fillet of a mixture of 407 and 406 colloidal silica, which after I sand and paint will present a nicely faired surface.

Here is a picture of the exterior through hull and 1/4" machine screw holes - notice the counter sink on the three machine screw holes. I will be installing 1/4" x 3" silicone bronze machine screws for this under the water line installation. The components will be bedded in either 3M 4200 or Sikaflex 291 (undecided), and screw head counter sinks faired with 410 microlight fairing filler.

Attaching Seacock Backing Plates

Marelon Flanged Seacock

On May 9th, 2010, I took the opportunity (after prepping the topsides for a coat of primer) to 'glue' in the new seacock backing plates. I decided to go ahead and use wood backing plates for these seacock installation, after mulling over creating my own fiberglass plates by building up layer upon layer of fiberglass wetted out with epoxy. The downside to the wood installation is potential future water seepage and subsequent breakdown of the plate. To guard against this, I coated all pieces of my constructed plates with epoxy prior to assembly.

The plates are made of red oak, 1/4" thickness. For each backing plate, I cut 3 squares approximately 4" x 4", sanded all surfaces, solvent washed them, and then coated all surfaces of each piece with epoxy. Once the epoxy had cured, I sanded to create a good surface for mechanical bonding, mixed up epoxy thickened with West System 403 Microfibers (great as a filler and for wood bonding), spread this thickened epoxy on the oak squares, and finally carefully clamped the pieces together while the plate cured. Once the plate had cured, I cleaned up the excess epoxy that had oozed from the assembly, and generally cleaned and rounded the edges. On to the hull...

On the interior of Froonie's hull, I sanded the surfaces to where the backing plates would be attached, and generally prepared the surface for epoxy work. Again I used the 403 Microfibers, mixing enough to generously fill any uneven surfaces and/or small voids on the surface of the hull. I spread this thickened recipe onto both the underside of the backing plate as well as onto the surface of the hull itself. I then firmly set the backing plates into position making sure a bit of filler oozed from the edges. Finally, I formed a fillet around the base of the backing plate for possible cloth application later on, or at least to create a smooth transition that would appear visually pleasing.

Here is a picture of one of the original thru hulls after I had extracted it. The factory set up was essentially a thru hull glued in place, with a locking nut set tight against the interior of the hull. The hose for draining the cockpit scupper was then attached directly to this thru hull. One accidental kick of this thru hull could open up the flood gates...so I am taking the time to install proper flanged seacocks and thru hulls (see pic above of the Marelon seacock). There are two cockpit scuppers, and so therefore two seacocks.

Port & Starboard Cockpit Drain Through Hull Patch

For Monday and Tuesday, the 29th and 30th of June, I prepared the holes created by removal of the cockpit drain through hulls - both the port and starboard.

I measured the outside radius of the repair area using the 12:1 bevel rule - creating sufficient area in order to help spread load. Once I marked the outside circumference of both the starboard and port repair areas, I prepared to sand the bevel.

For sanding the bevel, I used a 5", stiff sanding pad attached to my corded drill. I have a Dewalt VS random orbital sander and the Porter Cable 7335 (both 5"), but the soft pads would not allow me to efficiently create the bevel, nor would they allow me to control where on the repair I would want to apply the pad for material removal.

The inexpensive option of a drill-attached sanding pad seemed to work best. I used 5" adhesive, 40-grit discs to create the bevel. I started with the starboard side, and learned pretty quickly how to apply the sanding pad to the repair area in order to avoid sending the sanding disc flying off into orbit.

Once I was satisfied with the bevels, I cleaned up the interior by vacuuming and then applying a solvent wash to remove potential contaminates. I applied a solvent wash to the exterior repair area as well - generally preparing for the coming epoxy patch. Finally, I created backing plates for the repair areas by wrapping a small panel of cardboard with plastic sheeting. The cardboard is firm enough to allow thickened epoxy somewhere to be pressed into from the exterior side, but is also flexible to form around the repair opening. I wedged a few pieces of scrap 2x4s on the interior to keep the cardboard backing plates in place. This concluded work for Monday the 29th.

On Tuesday, the 30th, I arrived and immediately began setting up for the patch work. I cut two sheets of plastic sheeting and taped to the through hull repairs areas. With a sharpie marker, I traced the outside circumference of the repair area, and then progressively drew smaller circles until finally tracing the actual through hull hole. For each side, I drew approximately 6 to 7 circles - which would be used as layers in each patch. Once I finished tracing for the patches, I mixed a pot of neat epoxy and painted the repair areas to wet them out. While I waited for the epoxy to become tacky so that I could proceed with the thickened epoxy filler, I turned my attention to cutting out the fiberglass patches. You can see from the picture above all parts for the repair patch: plastic sheeting, release fabric, six 6oz fiberglass circular patches. Once I had the starboard patch ready to assemble, I mixed a pot of epoxy and added 404 high-density filler and applied to the actual through hull hole - spreading firmly into the hole and against the plastic covered cardboard backing plate. I also spread a thin layer across the outside surface of the repair area. The thickened epoxy provides a good bedding for the fiberglass patch, fills in the random low spots, and finally adds some additional strength to the repair. Once I had applied the epoxy thickened with the 404 high-density filler, I turned back to prepare the port patch, again cutting out the circular fiberglass patches. Once I had both patches ready to assembly, I cleaned up the job site a bit while I waited for the thickened epoxy to tack up. Once the thickened epoxy was ready to receive the patches, I began assembly of the starboard patch. I used a box for a work surface. First I taped a sheet of plastic down. The plastic would serve as a surface on which I could prepare the patch, and then pick up to apply to the hull. On top of the plastic I placed a piece of release fabric, and then my largest fiberglass circle - which I then wet out. I placed and wet out the fiberglass patches working progressively large to small, working the epoxy into the fiberglass cloth with a squeegee, and working to remove all trapped air. Once all circles had been wet out, the fiberglass patch was ready to place onto the hull. I then placed the entire assembly, centered, onto the repair area.

I worked the patch against the hull with the squeegee to remove trapped air and to generally smooth out the patch. I then pealed the plastic sheeting off, leaving the release fabric covering the patch to prevent contaminates from coming into contact with the patch as well as preventing amine blush from forming. I then applied the same technique to the port side, cleaned up, and called it a night. Final photo is of the applied port cockpit drain through hull patch. Next step is to fill and fair until smooth, and then drill out for proper seacock and through hull assembly.

Removal of Cockpit Drain Through Hulls

For Monday, June 22nd, I worked on removal of the cockpit drain through hulls.  Like the other through hulls (sink, head discharge, and raw water intake for head), the cockpit through hulls were glassed in on the interior.  The through hull fitting was being held against the interior of the hull with a large nut, fitted snugly to the hull and with fiberglass laid up around the base.  For the these through hulls there was no in-line ball valve or seacock - just the discharge hose connected to the through hull with a compression clamp.  

I attempted to remove the nut after spraying with lubricant (allowing to sit for awhile), but to no avail.  I decided to just get going with the removal, so I took a reciprocating saw to the threaded piece of the through hull on the interior - cutting just below the nut and tight up against the hull.  Next, I moved to the exterior and used a hole saw to cut through the hull and allowed the through hull to fall out.  I will further clean up the hole, preparing to fill and fair it. 

This is the original through hull removed from Froonie.  You can see that the installation was just the through hull with a nut securing from the interior (see pics below).  There was nothing blocking water intrusion if the hose were to fail, or if corrosion ultimately ate through the threaded portion of the through hull.  I will be patching the holes, filling and fairing, and then re-drilling for proper through hull / seacock installation.  I will also be crossing the the port drain to starboard seacock, and starboard drain to port seacock.

Finally, I sanded the interior patch of the head through hulls, and cleaned with acetone.  I then mixed some neat epoxy, wet out the area, and laid down a layer of 6oz cloth.  Once tacky, I came back with epoxy thickened with West System 407 fairing compound and 404 High-Density filler, and applied a smooth layer.  After inspection for general fairness, I will sand and prep for paint.  I also took the opportunity to further fair the exterior hull portion of the head through hull patch.  It appears that I will be fairing once more , possibly twice, before prepping for bottom paint.

Patching Head Through-Hulls

On Saturday the 23^rd of May, I began the process of patching the holes created by removing the original head through-hull fittings – one for the fresh water intake and one for the waste-out.  Since I will be sailing Froonie on the St. Johns River and along the coast, I can do without the head through-hulls – they would be points of potential failure while not being used. So I am going with a toilet that has a holding tank.  If I ever get the gumption to take this Alberg design into blue water, I will install proper through-hulls with seacocks for the head.

I began by roughing up the edges of the holes – both from the interior and from the exterior sides.  I then vacuumed all sanding debris from the inside, and thoroughly wiped the area with acetone to clean any residual dust from the work area.  Turning my attention to the exterior, I thoroughly wiped the repair area with acetone and generally prepared it for the patch.

I then taped a sheet of plastic to the exterior of the hull and began to trace the repair area with a sharpie.  I progressively traced smaller and smaller diameter circumferences – these tracings would later become templates for the fiberglass cloth cut-outs.  Once I had completed the tracings, I cut out the first template to be used to trim the initial fiberglass cloth patch.  I placed the template down onto a large piece of 6oz. fiberglass cloth, traced the circumference with the sharpie pen, and then cut the fiberglass to shape.  I then trimmed the plastic template down to the next smaller circumference, and repeated the process of outlining the shape onto the 6oz. cloth and cutting it out.  I followed these steps until I had my progressively smaller patches, all cut out of the fiberglass cloth.

Since I could not just begin applying thickened epoxy to an open hole, I prepared a backing surface from inside the cabin.  I placed a sheet of release fabric over the holes, and taped it in place as it had a tendency to slide down the interior of  the hull.  Since this was my first time working with the release fabric, and not being familiar with its performance, I placed a sheet of parchment paper on top of the release fabric – thinking the epoxy was going to bleed through the release fabric.  I then placed a couple layers of foam on top of the release fabric and parchment paper.  Finally, I placed a 2x4 over the foam, and then wedged a board over the 2x4 keeping everything solidly in place.  Biting my nails….I knew I was ready to begin the patch work.

I began by mixing ‘neat’ epoxy and brushing that over the prepared repair area – including the exposed release fabric.  Once the ‘neat’ epoxy began to kick (it was just tacky), I mixed 404 high-density filler into a batch of epoxy.  I worked the 404 in until I got a peanut butter consistency, and then spread this thickened epoxy into the old through-hull holes.  I worked the thickened epoxy in until it was just level with the inside bevel of the hole; I also spread a very thin layer across the remainder of the repair area.  I then immediately turned to the fiberglass cloth patches.  I placed the largest patch onto a clean work surface and used ‘neat’ epoxy to wet-out the patch.  Once I removed all excess epoxy, I placed the patch onto the repair area.  I repeated this process, working through all patches that I decided to use to fill the beveled surface.  Here is a picture of the fiberglass patches in place - you can see the 404 high-density filler at the center of the patches.

I say “decided to use” because as it turned out the beveled area was not as deep as to require all of the fiberglass cloth patches; if I would have used all of the prepared patches, my repair area would have stood proud to the surrounding hull surfaces and would have required a lot more sanding.  The process of wetting the patches out and then placing onto the repair area was a bit messy due to the size of the initial pactches.  In the future, I would plan to carefully place the patch onto the repair area and then fully wet-out with epoxy.

Once the patches were just tacky to touch, I mixed another batch of epoxy and thickened it with 407 micro-balloons to a spreadable consistency that would not sag.  I used a wide squeegee to work the thickened epoxy across the repair area – doing my best here to fair it even with the surrounding hull surface.  Finally, I placed a large piece of release fabric over the repair area, taping it to avoid the wind from grabbing it.  Working with the release fabric, I noticedthat the epoxy was not bleeding through as I worked the fabric up against the thickened epoxy.  I realized that the parchment paper was not needed in the interior backing.  …always learning!

The next day, I made a trip down to do some detail sanding on the cabin roof, and to check out the head through-hull patch work.  Here are a couple pics of the patched area with the release fabric removed and one of the interior showing through-hull holes filled with 404 high-density filler. I will sand the exterior, fill and fair until smooth with the surrounding hull surface; the interior will be finished with a layer of fiberglass, and faired smooth as well.

Removing Head Through Hulls

I have recently turned my attention to the head through hulls and sea cocks - they were essentially seized up and corroded.  Since Froonie will be sailed in the St Johns River and just along the coast, I have decided to remove the through hulls and just use a head with a holding tank.  I have no plans for blue water sailing on Froonie and can not discharge waste near shore, so the waste-out and fresh water intake through hulls aren't needed.  

Friday, May 8th, I removed the sea cocks with a reciprocating  saw - working very carefully to minimize damage to the hull.  I was successful in removing the old through hulls and sea cocks without tearing up the hull.  Next, I turned my attention to grinding a 12:1 bevel around the through hull holes.  I will be applying fiberglass patches to these voids, and then completing by fairing with either West System's 407 or 410 filler.